Natural history:
Being one of the most popular species of snakes in the pet trade and gaining recognition as one of the easiest types of snake to keep as a pet. The Corn snake or Elaphe guttata guttata gets its name from the early European settlers. They frequently encountered these snakes in there corn fields believing them to [ad#Google Adsense]consume corn when in fact these animals were feasting on rodents that would eat there crops. This species of snake is primarily nocturnal witch means they are more active at night. Being predominantly terrestrial ( found on the ground) but occasionally venturing up into the trees(arboreal) The Latin word Elaphe means deerskin, and guttata means speckled or spotted both of these terminology’s refer to rat snakes and corn snakes hints ware they get there name.
Habitat and Range:
Corn snakes are typically found in deciduous forest, Pine Barrens, rocky hillsides, and farm lands over a broad area of the United States. Expanding through the whole Eastern United States from Alabama to Virginia to Texas to New Jersey.
Size and annual Growth:
Corn Snakes are a medium size coulubrid (rat snakes, corn snakes, king snakes, racers, etc.) They typically reach lengths of 2.5-5 feet and some have been recorded larger! Hatchling range in size from 9-14 inches but most animals usually stay around 3-4 feet in length. The typical life span of corn snake is about 10 years of age and there have been records of animals living into there 20’s, but this is going to solely relate to the individual animal, diet, enclosure size and requirement that were properly met by the care taker. So if you take great care of your corn snake it will live a happy healthy long life. With proper feeding and good husbandry skills your animal should double its size every year and shedding should occur at least once a month. Shedding is the process of when a reptile grows large enough ware it has to get rid of its old skin in order to grow, this process is called Occydis. In the wild Corn snakes feed on a variety of items. This consists heavily on rodents as well as small grown dwelling birds and small frogs. Hatchlings have been known to feed on small lizards and tree frogs when they are first born. Know Corn snakes are not venomous they kill by a process referred to as constriction. This method is more commonly demonstrated by the large constrictor snakes e.g. pythons, and boas. The snake slowly suffocates the prey item rather then injecting venom into the animal to subdue it.
Enclosure:
There are many different methods of housing corn snakes successfully in captivity. Depending on the animals size you can start a hatchling in a 10 gallon aquarium or rather a small plastic shoe box designed appropriately to house a small snake. Adults can be maintained in larger aquariums such as 30- 40 gallon enclosures. This provided ample room for the animal to stretch at its full length. Many people are under the impression that there snake will only grow to the size of the enclosure, this is not true. In fact this misconception can prove very stressful and harmful to your animal. This practice will certainly stunt your animal’s growth and can even lead to further health related issues concerning cage size.
Time to set up your Corn Snake Enclosure:
Hatchlings:
When setting up an enclosure for your hatchling corn snake it is very important to first of all make sure the cage can be properly secured. The enclosure should either have a top the closes properly or snaps into place ware not to allow the animal to escape. If the top of the cage is made of a mesh material pay close attention to the animal activity. Stressed or roaming snakes can easily rub there noses raw trying to escape. This can prove to be harmful for the animal as a health issue and not to attractive to show to your friends. Simple is best when dealing with babies. Provide a simple environment.
Adults:
When providing a enclosure for your adult corn sake it is important to follow some of the same rules as stated earlier for the juveniles. Make sure the enclosure is secure, check the inside and tops for any holes or areas ware the animal could escape or might be able to injure itself on. Adult are much stronger the babies and can surprise you if there is an area in the cage left for question. Being quite determine adults can work one isolated area till they can fit there head through and disappear within a few moments.
Once the enclosure has been checked thoroughly for any areas ware the animal might injure itself or escape. You can know determine what type of bedding to incorporate.
Substrate:
When thinking of incorporating substrate into your new enclosure there are several things to keep in mind. Is this going to prove as useful and efficient as it should? There is several bedding out on the market. These can be utilized for both adults and hatchlings.
Aspen: Easy to pick up stool and urine. Usually does not have much of a smell to it. It is relatively inexpensive for the amount that can be purchased.
Pine chips: Easy to pick up stool and urine. Does not contain much of a smell to it. It is very inexpensive and easy to find at most pet supply stores.
Carpet Turf: Carpet turf can be found at many pet supplies stores and is easy to clean. It doesn’t contain any harmful smells and is easy to work with as well as coming in a variety of colors. The only thing that needs to be carefully watched that Carpet turf has bit of a rougher surface that can sometime lead to ventral scale problems (belly scales) this is a result of the animal rubbing itself to much on this surface and causing infections or small injuries.
Cypress mulch: Cypress mulch is a great substrate to utilize if you are looking of a more natural looking enclosure. It not only looks good but it holds in moisture and allows for the animal to burrow naturally. Just be aware that the animal does not accidentally ingest any of the substrate. Its also very easy to clean up stool and any other messes.
News paper/ paper towels: Ok, I know everyone is saying news papers!, Paper towels! yes . Both of these substrates are fantastic for incorporating into your enclosure for both adults and hatchlings. The reason behind this is that it is very easy to clean and look for problems in the stools as well as providing a more sterile environment; it is also very inexpensive to use.
These are all of the bedding materials that I personally recommend. There are lots of different types of substrate out on the market that can be great to use. Pay attention to the components that are in it. Does it have an overpowering smell or is it going to be toxic if it is accidentally ingested?
Décor:
Ok this is the fun part. Keep in mind that what ever you place into your new cage has to be safe for your animal to interact with. If there is some fake wood or rocks that you decide to place in the enclosure make sure they do not have any sharp edges or areas ware the animal can injure itself on.
Plants: There are several reptile companies that sell fake plants that look quite life like and cane spruce up a plane looking cage by utilizing several of them to gain more of a woodsy or tropical feel.
Rocks: Rocks are a great addition to any reptile enclosure and certainly one for corn snakes. Keep in mind that it is ok to use rocks found-out side but it is very important to wash them extremely well to be rid of any odd bacteria or pesticides that might have hitched a ride on them.
Wood: wood is great to add into your new enclosure. It adds sense of depth as it would be found in its natural environment as well as providing an area for the animal to properly shed. Wood can also provide sheltered areas for the snake to feel secure.
Hiding places should be provided, this will allow the animal to feels safe and secure.
Temperature/ Lighting:
Temperature is one of the most if not most important areas of owning a reptile especially a snake. Reptiles are cold blooded witch means that they rely on the environment to warm there bodies. This allows for them to hunt, digest, grow, and fight off any illness.
With ought proper temperature your animal will not survive. Typically corn snakes can be maintained at temperatures of 78-85 degrees. This will allow the snake to regulate its body temps and digests its food. You can reach these temperatures by using several methods.
Heat lamps: Heat lamps can be purchased at any pet supple shop and are over the tank heating element. This means they sit on top of the enclosure (safely) and deliver heat through out the enclosure. Temps can be regulated by using different wattage for different usages.
Under tank heating pad: under tank heating pads can be purchased at any pet supple shop. This method of heating is a plastic devise that has an adhesive side under it ware it should be placed under the outside of the reptile enclosure. This will radiate temperature through the tank to allow for proper temperatures.
Heat Rocks or Hot Rocks should never be used they fluctuate to much and can cause sever ventral burns or even kill your snake!
Ultraviolet lighting: Ultraviolet lighting can be incorporated into your enclosure. It is not essential but certainly will not hurt anything. Your lighting should consist of appropriate UVB and UVA exposure during the day time. It will also light up your enclosure to show case your naturalistic set-up.
Feeding:
You will need to feed your snake at least once a week depending on the size of animal you have. Typically you can offer hatchling corn snakes newborn mice witch are refereed to as “pinkies” it is up to you to either offer pre-thawed frozen or live. Pre-thawed frozen mice are easier to store, will cut back on aggression, and will also cut back on any injuries resulting from a live mouse biting your snake. As the animal grows you area going to want to offer appropriate sized prey items. A good practice when feeding is to offer food outside in a feeding designated enclosure. The reason for this is snakes aren’t typically that bright but what they can do its build up what is referred to as a “Feeding Response” a feeding response is when an animal gets into a habit of being offered food one method typically in its enclosure. The animal begins to demonstrate signs of aggression when the caretaker opens the cage. This is not the snake necessarily being mean to the owner but rather the animal believing that it is about to be fed and is eager to except what is coming into the cage weather it be a hand or a mouse. You can avoid this situation all together by taking out your snake and placing it into a separate designated feeding enclosure. The other benefit to offering frozen pre-thawed rodents is that it is much easier to store rather then live food. Placing in a small tup-aware in your freezer you can store easily larger amounts of food saving yourself trips every week to the pet store. Also buy offering frozen rodents it reduces the chance of internal parasites passing on into your animals.
These are all very simple examples of methods used for feeding enclosures:
1) Plastic tub
2) Tank
3) Paper bag
4) Bathtub
Rodent definitions:
Pinkies = new born mice
Fuzzies = one – two week old mouse just getting some fur on it.
Hoppers = these are any where from three to four weeks old and are completely covered
in hair and are quite jumpy getting there name “Hoppers”.
Mice = well there mice the end result, an adult mouse.
Humidity/ Water:
A lot of reptiles require having certain percentages of humidity in there environment. Corn snakes are not going to necessarily require this in the new habitat. The most important aspect of this is going to be drinking water. Water should be placed in a shallow dish or bowl in the enclosure and checked daily for quality. I recommend changing every day to ensure clean and safe drinking water. Tap water is usually fine but if you feel more comfortable using distilled or spring water that is acceptable as well.
Handling:
Ok, the good part right? Corn snakes are typically very docile but every one has there good and bad days. It is very important to remember that reptiles are not domesticated animals and are still reptiles. They are capable of inflicting bites when agitated, but this species is known for being quite docile. Upon receiving your new corn snake it is important to know to allow your snake to adjust to its new environment (acclimate) this is allowing the animal to get familiar with its cage and surroundings. You should be fine to start handling your snake with 24-48 hours upon the introduction into the new cage. Make sure you clean your hands before holding your snake. You do not want it to possibly get sick from something on your hands. It is also important not to handle food( for the snake) right before, remember to always wash your hands after .The more you handle the more comfortable the snake will be at being interacted with. It is also good to allow the animal to have some privacy and not be handled so it doesn’t get over stressed. One wonderful thing about corn snakes is that they are extremely docile and quite entertaining as well as coming in quite a variety of beautiful colors and patterns.
